DANDELION REMEDIES AND USES

Dandelion can be used liberally as it is non-poisonous. The roots, leaves and blooms of the plant are edible. Dandelion supports a healthy urinary tract, kidneys and liver function. When harvesting, be careful to select plants that have not been exposed to toxins or chemicals. For more information, click here.

This plant is traditionally used to support healthy liver function. Dandelion is rich in vitamin C and is useful in the treatment and prevention of scurvy. It is also useful in the treatment of skin eruptions and warts. The milky white juice that flows from the stalk can be applied directly to spots on the skin as a treatment.

Dandelion is useful in the treatment of excess fluid buildup in soft tissues. Because it replaces the nutrients lost as water passes from the body, there is not the mineral depletion associated with pharmaceutical diuretics. Dandelion is also consumed as a treatment for lung disease that is marked with wasting of the body.

Classified as a bitter herb, Dandelion is useful in the treatment of acid stomach or heartburn brought on by a lack of muscle tone. It works as a mild laxative in habitual constipation. A decoction or extract of Dandelion administered three or four times a day can help with an irritated stomach. It has a good effect in increasing the appetite and promoting digestion.

INFUSION/TEA
Pour 1 pint of boiling water over 1 ounce of Dandelion and allow to steep for 10 minutes.
Strain and sweeten with honey. Drink several glasses in the course of the day. The use of this tea is efficacious in the treatment of nausea and edema.

DECOCTIONS
This method of herbal preparation involves gently simmering an herb until the water is reduced to a specific amount.

Version 1
Place 1 pint of the sliced root in 20 parts of water and gently boil for 15 minutes. When cooled, strain the liquid and sweeten with honey. A small teacupful may be taken once or twice a day.

Version 2
Simmer 2 ounces of the herb or root in 1 quart of water until the volume is reduced to a pint.
Take this in 6 ounce doses every three hours for scurvy (caused by too little vitamin C), scrofula (lymph gland tuberculosis usually of the neck), eczema and all eruptions on the surface of the body.

Version 3
Decoction for jaundice in young children:
1 ounce Dandelion root
½ ounce of each of Ginger root, Caraway seed & Cinnamon bark
¼ ounce Senna leaves
Gently boil in 3 pints of water until reduced in volume to 1 1/2 pint. Strain. Dissolve ¾ cup honey into the hot liquid and bring to a boil again. Skim all the impurities that come to the surface when clear. Allow to cool. Give frequently in teaspoonful doses.

Version 4
Decoction for Gall Stones
1 ounce each of: Dandelion root, Parsley root, and Balm herb
One half ounce each of Ginger root and Liquorice root
Place in 2 quarts of water and gently simmer down to 1 quart
Strain. Drink six ounces every two hours.

DANDELION TINCTURE
Collect Dandelion plants (including roots and tops) from a pesticide and herbicide free zone.
Good-quality dried Dandelion may be substituted. It is best to collect more than you think you'll need because the plant does wilt during preparation. Clean the plants according to instructions found here.

Slice the roots thinly. Fill a quarter to two-thirds of a canning jar with dandelion root. Pour just enough boiling water over the herbs to cover. Then fill the rest of the jar with 100-proof vodka. Seal the jar tightly and shake to mix thoroughly.

Set the jar in a warm sunny area. The sun will not harm the tincture. Shake the jar twice daily. The tincture will be ready in two weeks. Strain the liquid through a clean cotton cloth or coffee filter. Squeeze the solid matter to express all of the liquid. Pour the tincture into a dark amber glass bottle, filling to close to the top to eliminate air exposure during storage. Cap tightly. Store in a cool, dark cabinet until needed.

Take a spoonful of the tincture every day to help with health issues.

Some individuals include the dandelion leaf as well as the root in the tincture. A tincture made from the leaves may be taken three times daily by placing 10 to 15 drops in a spoonful of water.

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This article is not meant to be taken as medical advice. The information provided is for the enrichment of the reader and is not offered as a substitute for the care of a health professional. The reader assumes all liability and should use common sense and discretion when utilizing this information.

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CRICKETS MAY BE JUST THE TICKET IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION

Crickets can be found in shallow burrows beneath stone or dirt or in tufts of plant material. They are more active at night when the males can be heard calling to attract females for breeding. While most varieties are found in forests and grasslands, crickets can also be found in marshes and seashores as well as caves and trees.

AS A THERMOMETER
You can use the sound of a cricket as a thermometer. If you are in a temperate area that is not hotter than 100º F or cooler than 55º F, then you can tell the temperature by counting the number of cricket chirps you hear in 15 seconds. Add 40 to the number of chirps you hear. The result is the temperature in Fahrenheit. If you wish to know the temperature in Celsius, determine the number of chirps you hear in 25 seconds, divide that number by 3 and then add 4.

AS A LURE
Crickets can be used as live bait to secure a satisfying meal of fresh fish. Cricket fishing is most effective in small lakes and within 15 feet of shore.

Once you’ve located a cricket and secured your hook to the fishing line, bait your hook with the live cricket. Hold the cricket firmly between your thumb and fingers while you insert the hook held in your other hand. Some instruct that the barb of the hook should be inserted into the thorax behind the cricket’s head, pressed through the length of the cricket's body and exited via the rear end just under the tail. However, experienced cricket-bait fishermen tell me that they prefer to insert the barb into the rear, just under the tail and thread it through the length of the body, exiting through the thorax, near the head. This method keeps fish from sucking the cricket off of the hook, robbing you of your meal AND your bait.


If you locate an empty can, it can be converted into a makeshift reel. Toss your baited hook into the water, making sure to keep a firm hold on the free end of the line. Reel in your line by wrapping it around the can. Repeat until you have your fish.

AS A FOOD SOURCE
Compared to cattle raised for food, a cricket can reproduce nearly 20 times faster. Within 3 to 4 weeks, a female can lay over a thousand eggs. Crickets can thrive using a fraction of the space and food required to produce an equivalent amount of consumable meat from other livestock. When compared to meat production by chickens and pigs, crickets were twice as efficient. They are able to provide meat at four times the rate of sheep, and six times the rate of cattle when allowances are made for carcass trim and dressing.

Crickets as a food source can offer a significant source of many nutrients and protein. Nutritionally, 100 grams of cricket meat is 21% protein, 6% fat and 3% carbohydrates along with 21 mg of calcium. Per gram of dry weight, cricket meat provides 63 to 122 mg of fatty acid which includes linoleic acid and a-linolenic acid as well as copper, iron and magnesium. This is produced while they consume table scraps.

CRICKET ROUND-UP
The Paiute people used to harvest crickets by digging a series of large trenches. These were covered with dry straw. Large numbers of crickets would be herded into the trenches. The straw was then set aflame, roasting the crickets alive. The women would then gather bushels of the cooked bugs and take them home to grind into protein-rich flour for bread.

RAISE YOUR OWN
One way to ensure a ready supply of crickets that have not been exposed to chemical sprays is to raise your own. Keep them in an aquarium with a couple of inches of soil on the bottom. Place egg cartons inside for roosts. Moistened cotton balls will provide them with water. Leave grated bits of vegetable and grain scraps for them to eat, making sure they have a ready supply of fresh foods. Every few days, mist the soil lightly. Make sure the lid is tight-fitting and secure as crickets are known for their ability to escape their confines and will attempt to do so whenever the lid is opened.

PREPARATION
Take the desired quantity live crickets and place them into a colander or other container with drain holes. Cover the container quickly with a piece of wire screening or cheesecloth to keep the insects from escaping. Rinse them thoroughly by running water over them. Dry them by shaking the colander until the water no longer drips. Place the crickets in a sealed container and place this in the freezer for about 15 minutes. This will be long enough to kill them, but not long enough to freeze them. Remove them from the freezer and rinse them again. Cricket's heads, hind legs, and wing cases can be removed according to personal preference. The legs will tend to get stuck in the teeth and could be painful to swallow. The crickets can then be eaten raw, roasted, or dehydrated to be incorporated into your favorite recipes.

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CAUTION
Whatever your method, care should be taken when harvesting crickets for food. Don’t collect insects near residential areas as they may have been contaminated by herbicides or insecticides.

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Below Ray Mears demonstrates using a can as a fishing reel.
It's towards the end of this short video:

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GOLDENROD HARVEST & USES

Goldenrod is the common name for Solidago virgaurea. This plant grows in Europe, Asia, and North America. This plant grows in open areas, along hillsides, and mountain ranges, reaching a height of 2 to 3 feet, with alternate leaves, and branches of golden flowers when in bloom.

The plant blossoms in the fall of the year when it is ready for harvest. In most areas, you will know goldenrod is ready as you notice the feathery yellow blossoms beside the roadway. Don’t harvest these plants as they’ve been exposed to the exhaust of cars.

The best places to find goldenrod are areas near water that have good sun exposure. I was able to find a small open span near an abandoned foot bridge. The area was filled with leggy grasses, pokeweed and goldenrod. To harvest, use sharp garden shears and cut the top 2 to 3 feet with blooms. The smell of wild carrots or a faint citrus aroma comes from the aromatic bruised parts of the plant. The flowers can be used to produce a pleasant yellow dye.

DRYING HERBS
To preserve your herb, secure the cut stems with twine in small groupings (5 to 10 stems). Leave a loop in the string and hang them upside down (flowers pointing downward), with a box lid beneath them. You can hang them in a closet, spare cabinet, from a beam, in a storage room, or on a wall where they will not be disturbed. Even coat racks and hooks can be used. If the herbs are small enough, you can place a paper bag over the leaves and blooms to catch any loosened plant parts as they dry. The plants will dry in 1 to 3 weeks. You can also preserve flower arrangements in this same way.

Once dry, remove the blooms and leaves from the stem and store in a clean glass jar with a lid.

Goldenrod is a medicinally beneficial herb classified as detoxifying, regenerating and symptom regulating.

DETOXIFYING HERBS are those which help clear blockages and remove excesses. Goldenrod contains tannin and is classified as a bitter. A bitter promotes the secretion of the digestive juices as it is tasted. This herb helps the body remove excess fluid (diuretic). Traditionally, this herb was used to help remove stones in the bladder. Thick phlegm and deposits of hardened mucus (catarrh) are reported to be removed by goldenrod. Because it has antioxidant properties, goldenrod tea is useful for urinary tract infections. A digestive, goldenrod strengthens weak digestion. By promoting the perspiration (diaphoretic), this herb helps remove toxins from the body.

REGENERATING HERBS build and tone overwhelmed tissues and functions. As an astringent, goldenrod helps to shrink inflamed tissues. Its volatile oil gives goldenrod its aromatic properties. In powder form, it is used to help speed wound healing and produce scar tissue known as cicatrization. This was once commonly used to treat ulcers. The ability to promote the healing of damaged tissue classifies goldenrod as a vulnerary.

SYMPTOM REGULATING HERBS promote the relief and comfort of pain and other troublesome symptoms. Because it prevents and counteracts decay, goldenrod is classified as an antiseptic. Goldenrod tea can be used for an oral rinse. A stimulant, goldenrod increases the activity of other herbs when added to a remedy. A carminative, goldenrod helps remove gas (and the related pain) from the digestive tract. A tea infused with goldenrod, can help reduce fever. This same application can be helpful in the treatment of painful menstruation.

TEA
To make a tea, place 2 teaspoons of dried flowering stalks into a container. Pour boiling water over the herbs and cover for 10 minutes. Drink a cup three times daily until symptoms are allieviated. This tea is considered helpful in the treatment of seasonal allergies (one half cup four times daily). However, if I found it helpful, I would drink as often as I desired.

NASAL SPRAY
In addition to drinking the tea, it can be administered as a nasal spray. This helps with upper respiratory tract illnesses which have characteristic sore throat and low fever, accompanied by inflammation.

SOOTHING OIL OR SALVE
Strains, sprains and sore muscles respond favorably to a soothing oil infused with goldenrod. Apply this liberally and repeatedly as often as every ½ hour if needed (every three hours or so usually). This has been known to ease chronic pain and stiffness. While this will not help structural damage, it does ease inflamed and painful tissues. Wounds, cuts, and scratches are also soothed and healing is aided with the application of a salve or oil made with goldenrod because of its vulnerary properties.

TINCTURE
The symptoms of allergies are helped with tincture of goldenrod. When formulating a tincture, you can combine goldenrod with other herbs as it increases their beneficial properties. Nettle and elderberry work well with goldenrod in this application for some individuals, but as with all herbs, the individual response (and any underlying conditions) must be taken into account when determining the best treatment. Blend goldenrod with Echinacea, yarrow and elderberry to make a tincture which can be effective in alleviating kidney and urinary tract infections. A dropperful is administered every hour until the discomfort subsides. Thereafter, several drops are taken 3 to 4 times daily for about ten days. Ten days is a good trying time and one used in Scripture to prove that healing had (or had not) taken place.* A tincture can also be used as a linament.

In later articles we will cover how to create your own oils, salves and tinctures. In the meantime, if you’re interested in learning more about herbs (and a lot of other topics) I recommend THE VISION by best-selling author Debi Pearl. Nestled neatly among an intriguing plot are tidbits and tips about the everyday use of herbs. Get your copy today.

*A study of the phrase “ten days” in the Bible can prove interesting.

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This article presents ideas and information designed to enrich the reader. This is NO substitute for personalized professional care. The opinions and ideas expressed are fallible and that of the author. Readers are encouraged to be well-informed and draw their own conclusions.

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GERMINATION FOR THE NEXT GENERATION

Genesis 1:29

And God said, Behold, I have given you every herb bearing seed, which is upon the face of all the earth, and every tree, in the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed; to you it shall be for meat.

Healthy plants and animals have been designed to reproduce after their own kind. As gardening practices developed, seeds were saved from the previous season for planting the following season. Farmers would select seeds from the plants that fared the best in their environment.

In recent history, major US corporations have been formed which retail seeds to farmers. This has been a beneficial relationship as it saved the farmer labor hours and allowed him to try new varieties of crops. The corporations were able to devote their resources exclusively to seed collection, storage and retail.

Scientific developments have made it possible to alter seeds in order to increase their profitability. Some of these newer methods have had dire consequences for farmers, food quality, and the consuming public. In the name of protecting standards, this new technology could create a world-wide dependency on seed corporations. This would be accomplished by retailing seeds that have been engineered to produce for one season and then yield seeds that are either sterile or very unpredictable in their ability to reproduce.

Three popular methods currently used to accomplish this include hybrid plants, genetically modified (GM) seeds and Terminator Technology.

Hybrid plants can produce food and seeds, but their seeds don't produce after their own kind because the plants are a cross of two different varieties. Genetically modified (GM) seeds are designed to produce plants resistant to chemical poisons and sprays. This enables farmers to use more chemicals during the growing season which has a damaging effect on the soil and the microbial and micronutrient content available to the plants. Terminator Technology is a type of genetic modification that insures a seed will only produce plants for one season, rendering subsequent seeds sterile.

Individuals can act to help insure that a fertile source of seeds remain available to the general public by starting their own seed banks. You don’t have to be a farmer to harvest and store seeds for future use. When purchasing seeds, look for catalogs that state they do not retail GM seeds. Purchase only heirloom seeds, as these are unaltered. Look for fruits, vegetables, grains and various herbs that you would use for seasoning, spice and/or medicinal purposes.

Seeds harvested from flowers, fruits, vegetables and herbs can be placed onto waxed or parchment paper to air dry at room temperature. Use a marker to label the paper, so you won't forget the date and the variety. When dry, move the seeds to a labeled paper envelope. This can be kept in a glass jar in your refrigerator for long term storage. If you have dark, cool, dry area, seeds are generally known to store well in such an environment. For grass and grain seeds that would be broadcast over a large area, you may want to make some seed balls for convenience in storage and later planting.

But why store seeds if you don’t plan to grow them?

Currently, there is a bill before Congress (H.R. 875) that threatens to so regulate sources of food that it has the potential to put a stop to roadside stands, backyard gardens and organic farming practices. Whether this will become law and how it will be enforced remains to be seen. Yet, it may be wise to begin saving seeds now, while the practice is still unregulated.

Consider harvesting and storing seeds that you may not be interested in growing. Do your research and label the seeds with both their botanical and common names. There are internet sites devoted to trading seeds. You may be able to get the seeds you want for free by trading your unwanted surplus.

Without heirloom seed companies, these seeds could cease to exist. In the current economic and political climate, this is a possibility. Individuals that enjoy the freedom of growing their own foods -- or even purchasing foods grown without chemicals -- would do well to take the time to secure their source of heirloom seeds.

No Greater Joy Magazine is a bi-monthly publication that featuring articles on simple living and strengthening family ties. Visit Mike and Debi Pearls’ web site at www.NoGreaterJoy.org to get your free subscription today.


How to Harvest & Dry Seeds -- powered by eHow.com

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SEED BALLS -- NATURE AT WORK

Seed balls are a seed delivery system that protects seeds from drying out in the sun, getting eaten by birds and insects, or from being blown away by the wind. Additionally, the ingredients of a seed ball offer nutrients that the seed needs to germinate and grow properly.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/1627/
"Native Americans . . . carried their precious seeds within tiny balls made of clay and soil and hardened in the sun. There was little loss of seeds since they were encased within the clay balls. When they arrived at their destination, the clay balls were placed wherever needed, and with the spring rains and summer sunshine, they grew where they were placed. A garden was planted . . ."

In 1973, a variation of this method of broadcasting seed was used to make 'seed bombs' to revitalize New York's Bowery neighborhood. (http://heavypetal.ca/tag/seedbomb/) Seed balls and bombs are also used by "Guerrilla gardeners." These are individuals that secretly plant various seeds in neglected public and private areas.

RECLAIMING BARREN GROUND
Seed balls are a convenient way to reclaim a bare patch of land that is arid, has an unpredictable rainfall, and where the soil is thin and compacted. This method can also be used to furnish an area with plants that attract beneficial insects, transforming it into a wild garden. Wildflower and herb seeds are well-suited this method. Seed balls offer the flexibility of scattering the balls on a sunny day and allowing nature to decide when it is best to start the seedlings.

"We use a combo of wild flower, mustards, radish seeds and wheat to create a haven for beneficial insects. We sow the balls in winter in our next-door neighbor's yard. They had a long piece of bare ground adjacent to our garden that was full of weeds and bermuda grass *yuck*."
(http://www.pathtofreedom.com/pathproject/gardening/seedballs.shtml)

HOW THEY WORK
When enough water penetrates a seed ball, the clay content softens, and holds the water close to the seed as it sprouts. The seedling then draws upon the other nutrients in the seed ball to establish itself in the soil.

As the crop from one season matures, the seeds for the next season are formed into balls that can be scattered at harvest.

Because much less seed is used than in conventional growing, there are fewer plants. But these plants are stronger and reportedly have a higher yield.



HOW TO MAKE SEED BALLS: 1 * 3 * 5
Seed balls are made using a 1:3:5 formula -- 1 part seed mixture, 3 parts compost (manure or potting) soil, and 5 parts clay.

For additional protection from insects, you can include a 10% addition of some insect repelling herbs such as red chili pepper, cayenne, catnip, pennyroyal or peppermint -- or a combination of them.

SEED BALL RECIPE:
1 part seed mix : wildflowers are best, avoid seeds of invasive plants.
3 parts dry organic compost . . . can blend manure or potting soil with this.
10 percent insect repelling herbs (wear gloves when using pepper).
MIX WELL
5 parts finely ground natural clay (terra cotta, gray or white)
MIX WELL
2 parts water (added gradually)

This can be done following these approximate measurements to make about 30 seed balls:
1/3 cup seed mix
3/4 cup compost
1 tbsp repellent herbs (wear gloves if using pepper)
1 1/4 cups clay

Mix the seeds into the dry compost by hand. Then add the clay to the mix and blend everything by hand until well-incorporated. Use gloves if you've added cayenne pepper to your mix. Mist water onto the mixture while stirring, just enough water to allow the mixture to bind together to the consistency of cookie dough.

Roll the moistened mixture into penny-sized round balls about the size of a marble. Once this is done, place the balls into the sun and allow them to dry completely for a day or two (24 to 48 hours).

When ready, the seed balls can be placed onto the ground you wish to seed. Place 1 ball per square foot of soil (9 balls per yard, 10 balls per meter). Consider bare spots that lack vegetation: driveways, exposed tree roots, etc. The process will begin with the first soaking rain . . . or as you decide to water them.

LETTING NATURE DO THE WORK


FOR FURTHER READING:
http://www.wildflower.org/howto/show.php?id=17&frontpage=true
http://heavypetal.ca/archives/2007/03/how-to-make-seedballs/
http://www.pathtofreedom.com/pathproject/gardening/seedballs.shtml

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